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Rustic Blue Holiday Guide to Cadiz

Columbus sailed from here and Drake sneaked in to "singe the King of Spain's beard". Cádiz remains a city of intrigue and mystery …

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Cádiz is just about completely surrounded by the sea La Plaza de San Juan de Dios La Catedral Nueva de Cádiz Looking out to the Americas Siesta time The Town Hall and Plaza de San Juan de Dios at night The Cathedral dominates the skyline
Cádiz
Population

127,200

Altitude

20 metres

Distance from Málaga

254 kilometres

Distance from the Coast

0 kilometres

Patron Saints

Ntra. Sra. del Rosario

Fiesta Dates

Carnival (it's a huge occasion in Cádiz)

Easter Week

Festividad de Ntra. Sra. del Rosario, 7th October

Los Tostantos, a festival of eating and drinking, 31st October

Climate

The sea and its never stopping breezes (and occasional gales) keeps the temperatures steady between 15º in winter up to 32ºC in high summer.

In winter it can rain, and occasionally really belts down. Summers are warm and sunny and only very rarely is it uncomfortably hot

Description

Europe's oldest city

One which continues to evoke the romance and mystery of centuries of trade (some legal, some not so) between Europe, Africa and the Americas.

Cádiz, built on a narrow, fist-shaped spit of land jutting into and completely surrounded by the sea, is probably Europe's oldest, continuously inhabited city. A city which continues to evoke the romance and mystery of centuries of trade (some legal, some not so) between Europe, Africa and the Americas.

Founded by the Phoenicians around 1,100 BC. it is, first and foremost, a port - its history loud with broadsides and buccaneering, with armadas and sieges. Columbus sailed out of here and Drake sneaked in to "singe the King of Spain's beard". In Julius Caesar's day, salted fish was being shipped from here back to Rome.

It is a city made up of two towns, old and new. The old town is shaped like a fist smashing into the Atlantic, a place with cobbles under foot, balconies overhead and streets tight enough to keep secrets. The new town is the trailing arm, a sprawl of shops, colleges and apartment blocks that went up largely in the 1960s and 1970s.

Spain's very own Havana

Many compare Cádiz to Havana and after a couple of days strolling around, dipping in and out of the dense mesh of narrow streets it's easy to see why.

In the Bond film 'Die Another Day', the old town pretends, plausibly, to be Havana. The city has often been compared to Havana, and after a couple of days strolling around, dipping in and out of the dense mesh of narrow streets, it is easy to see why. Visitors continually find themselves lost here as nearly every road ends at the sea, regardless of which direction it is heading in, north, south, east or west …

Literally crumbling - the effects of brine on its soft limestone - the city has tremendous atmosphere: slightly seedy, much of it in decline, but still full of intrigue and mystery.

One of the first impressions is the luminous intensity of the light reflecting off stone and whitewashed exteriors. Laurie Lee likened Cádiz to a scimitar "lying curved on the bay and sparkling with African light".

Pickled in brine and sunshine

Its heyday was in the early 18th century when it wealthy merchants built lavish homes and created a prosperous, glamorous society.

Cádiz has no grand designs or big-name architects. Walk around its cobbled streets, pickled in centuries of Andalusian sunshine, and it's the vernacular, the everyday, the ordinary that catch the eye - elegant mirador-fronted facades painted in pastel shades, blind alleys, cafes and ancient back streets imprisoned behind formidable fortifications.

Its heyday was in the early 18th century, when the Chamber of Commerce of the Americas was transferred from Sevilla, bringing with it wealthy merchants who built lavish homes and created a prosperous, glamorous society.

Much of Cádiz still looks as it must have done in those great days of the Spanish Empire, with its grand open squares, tiled alleyways, secret courtyards and high, turreted houses.

Built in the porous local stone and painted ochre, pink, pistachio green and duck-egg blue, some of these mansions are now faded and decrepit but others are now newly restored and pristine, bought by the fashion and design conscious of Sevilla.

Glassed-in balconies sparkle in the sunlight, framed by dainty wrought-iron balustrades painted silver or white. Many of these houses are topped with turrets from which lookouts scanned the horizon for ships with valuable cargoes, returning from the New World.

A city of intrigue and history, at the same time it's also very friendly - the people of Cádiz (gaditanos) are famed throughout Spain for their hospitality, humour and good nature. There is nothing swanky about Cádiz, but its people live well and the city has a lovely, laid-back vibe.

A laid-back vibe

The people of Cádiz are famed throughout Spain for their easy going hospitality, humour and good nature.

The seafood and the sherry is the best in Spain and Cádiz's reputation as a party town goes back to Roman times.

Very relaxed and easy-going, a place for mooching around and indulging in low-key, simple pleasures. It's a sort of Spanish "mini-Manhattan", a place to throw away the map and just stroll through its rod-straight streets, tightly packed alleyways and plazas large and small.

Squares like Plaza San Antonio and Plaza Candelaria make wonderful pit stops where you simply must sample the magnificent seafood and sherry of the tapas bars and cafés.

The fish and shellfish is some of the best and freshest in the world. Best eaten as simply cooked as possible, plain boiled shellfish, grilled or baked whole fish such as lubina (bass) or dorada (bream), or deep fried with a light flour coating, especially puntillitas (baby squid) and boquerones (anchovies).

Eat, drink and be merry

The fish and shellfish is some of the best and freshest in the world. The local, bone-dry sherry is a perfect aperitif.

To eat cheaply, head for Calle Zorrilla which has several tapas bars and street vendors, or the open air terraces of the restaurants in Calle de la Palma. For a splurge, the best place in town is Restaurante El Faro (Calle San Félix) and even here the food can be quite cheap, especially if you stand at the bar and eat only tapas.

Fino, a bone dry sherry from Jerez, or manzanilla, a similar wine from Sanlucar de Barrameda, is the perfect aperitif!

In between the eating and drinking, there's the Roman amphitheatre, the cathedral and the museum on Plaza Mina. The cathedral's tower provides spectacular views and the camera obscura in the Torre Tavira gives you a fantastic window on the city. Located in one of the towers originally used by merchants to watch out for their ships returning home from the Americas, it provides a wonderful, birds-eye view of the old part of town.

Sightseeing

Best to throw away the map and just stroll through the rod-straight streets, tightly packed alleyways and plazas large and small.

Cádiz's churches are filled with wonders such as the Goya frescoes in the Oratorio de la Santa Cueva, and a haunting El Greco in the chapel of the Hospital de Mujeres.

Stroll around the city walls, built to protect the city after the British attack and sacking in 1596. Start near the Plaza España on the north side of the city and follow the massive coastal defences all the way round to the Puerta de Tierra, which separates old Cádiz from the new city.

Take in the lovely Parque Genovés with its exotic flora shipped back from all over the world and the parrots which nest in them, the castle of Santa Catalina, the beach at La Caleta (which boasts Spain's best sunsets) and the magnificent Avenida Campo del Sur where the golden-domed cathedral dominates the skyline.

Buy local produce in the ultramarinos (delicatessens) that you find on almost every street. Bottled fruit, olives, sherries (of course) and other local wines, sheep and goat's cheese, hams …The food is mouth-watering and the shops themselves are a national treasure. The Central Market is also well worth a visit in the morning, especially the fish section.

Carnival

Carnival in Cádiz is big-time. The city stops work for 10 days and devotes itself to singing, dancing, fancy dress and drinking.

The gaditanos are a happy crowd and make the most of their temperate weather by pouring onto the streets at every opportunity, by day and night. For night spots try the Playa de la Victoria beach area or, in the old town, the areas around Plaza San Francisco, Calle Rosario and anywhere in Barrio de la Viña (the old fishermen's district) where you'll also find flamenco bars.

Cádiz hosts one of the world's biggest winter fiestas, the pre-Lent Carnival celebrations. The city stops work for 10 days and devotes itself to singing, dancing, fancy dress and, of course, drinking. Revellers' sing their satirical, sharply off-beat songs, often of a political nature and with clever word plays. Thousands pour into the city but beware, there won't be a free seat in a bar, let alone a vacant hotel room.

One way to experience Carnival on the cheap, and perhaps the preferred way of Andalusian locals, is to board an afternoon train heading to Cádiz, spend the night singing and dancing, then catch the first train back in the morning (where the singing, dancing and drinking will continue unabated!)

As the official Cádiz web site says in its inimitable English, "Don’t just lick your ice cream to get cool. Visit Cadiz now!"

Holiday villas

Holiday villas within two hours drive of Cadiz

  • ZC 91 - Sleeps sleeps 4 to 9 + 4 children

    This restored farmhouse has real style. The owner is an accomplished designer with exemplary good taste and creative flair; here he has combined traditional with contemporary. The result is fabulous!

    from 2,450€ to 4,490€

  • ZC 82 - Sleeps 12

    Holiday villas don't come any more special than this! No expense has been spared in converting this impressive hacienda into a luxury villa of the very highest quality. It combines the very best in modern comfort with inherent Spanish charm.

    from 5,760€ to 6,900€

  • ZC 30 - Sleeps 8 to 18 + 4 children

    A magnificent and very beautiful countryside estate designed and built by an award winning architect, its five independent holiday villas combine perfectly for a large private group. Two fantastic pools, sauna, glorious countryside and much, much more to enjoy.

    from 1,850€ to 5,060€

  • ZC 40(1) - Sleeps 10

    Hugging the hillside like a beacon, this is a house of great character- some would say eccentric - set on a vast, 54 acre mountain estate. Anyone looking for authenticity and tranquillity will treasure this unspoilt paradise, without doubt, one of the most beautiful locations in Spain.

    from 1,730€ to 2,090€

  • ZC 69 - Sleeps 4 to 18

    Surrounded by some of the most dramatic mountain scenery to be found in Andalusian Spain, this fabulous property, a beautifully restored Casa Señorial (manor house), sits proudly on the edge of the town, overlooking its own lush gardens and pool below.

    from 1,990€ to 2,865€

  • ZC 65 - Sleeps 6 or 10

    From the road into Jimena, just a stone throw from the village, a country track takes you through the electric gate – and along the driveway to a parking bay directly in front of the main house. Park here and you have arrived into a haven of tranquillity.

    from 2,250€ to 4,130€

  • ZC 111 - Sleeps 12/14 + 4

    The most stunning feature of this villa has to be its beautiful gardens, but when you step inside the house, into the entrance hall, you instantly feel the quality of this holiday villa. The decor is warm, all in gentle reds, rusts, golds and ochres, the tones are of African earth and sunshine.

    from 2,595€ to 5,495€

  • ZC 97 - Sleeps 4

    This well-designed, well-equipped holiday home on its own 6 acre private estate overlooks the lush valley of the Guadiaro with stunning views to the mountains beyond. A perfect base for anyone who enjoys the peace and quiet of real Andalusian countryside.

    from 630€ to 1,500€

  • ZC 40(4) - Sleeps 2

    Built in a little cluster below an really impressive rock formation, these four cottages offer comfortable studio accommodation exclusively for couples. On a vast mountain estate, it's one of the most beautiful and tranquil locations in Andalucía.

    from 510€ to 700€

  • ZC 70 - Sleeps 12 + 6

    The owners bought the house in 2007 and since then, they have completely renovated it to be a house of superb quality and style. With the addition of the river apartment, a guest cottage, indoor and outdoor heated pools and a jacuzzi, this is a property that is lacking for nothing.

    from 5,800€ to 9,000€

  • ZC 48 - Sleeps 6

    This 200 year old shepherd's dwelling near Tarifa has been restored to create a comfortable and homely, rustic holiday villa. It has a privileged position in the heart of the Natural Park "El Estrecho" just five minutes drive from two of the most beautiful beaches in Spain.

    from 1,430€ to 3,420€

  • ZC 52 - Sleeps 6

    Located deep within the Tarifa Natural Park, this very special holiday villa is totally secluded, surrounded by the verdant greenery of pine forests, yet just 15 minutes walk from an equally secluded beach. One of the most unique places to stay anywhere in Europe, never mind Andalucía.

    from 1,710€ to 3,990€

  • ZC 57 - Sleeps 6

    Local style prevails at this holiday home in a stunning setting above the lake at Zahara, a lovely spot on the edge of the Grazalema National Park. There is plenty of room for children to play and some of the best views in Spain.

    from 650€ to 910€

  • ZC 19 - Sleeps 6

    Perched on the hillside with breathtaking views of Zahara de la Sierra on the opposite shore of its stunning lake, this is one of the most spectacularly situated properties in this wonderful part of Spain. Just rolling hills and the tranquility of nature to keep you company; a rural idyll.

    from 850€ to 1,300€

  • ZC 12 - Sleeps 6 or 8

    Looking out from the forest above the little village to a heavenly panorama of mountain, hill and wooded slopes, this is an intimate, enjoyable and friendly holiday home. A great place to stay.

    from 1,300€ to 1,760€

  • ZC 28 - Sleeps 5

    This town house has been restored and decorated by its English owner to create a simple, unpretentious but comfortable property with old-world charm. There's a little garden and pool, plus the more cosmopolitan charms of one of Andalucia´s most engaging little towns.

    from 480€ to 1,090€

  • ZC 13 - Sleeps 6

    This lovely rustic cottage is located in stunning mountain scenery. Renovated with great care, the cottage retains all its inherent rustic charm, enhanced by carefully chosen, traditional furnishings.

    from 850€ to 1,430€

  • ZC 46 - Sleeps 8

    Charming rustic, this imaginatively refurbished old farmhouse is a great place to stay. Overlooking the Natural Park of Alcornocales and just five minutes from two of the most beautiful beaches on the Costa de la Luz, this is one of the best holiday destinations anywhere in Andalucia.

    from 2,050€ to 4,990€

  • ZC 26 - Sleeps 8

    Surrounded by the exciting landscapes of the National Park, and just a couple of minutes away from lovely Grazalema itself, this farmhouse has been restored without in any way disturbing its ageless country charm. Homely and traditional, it's genuinely rustic, both inside and out.

    from 980€ to 1,110€

  • ZC 11 - Sleeps 2

    Three cottages for couples, they share pretty gardens, the pool … and a view to die for! Ships passing through the Straits, a huge panoramic sweep of the Moroccan coast, the street lights of Ceuta and Tangiers twinkling beneath the huge rocky crags of the Rif mountains … one of the most sensational views in Spain.

    from 670€ to 1,160€

  • ZC 58 - Sleeps 7

    Spacious, light and comfortable inside, the handsome swimming pool is just one of the attractions of this lovely holiday villa. Set in its own grounds surrounded by pine trees and mountains, the gardens are delightful and the views wonderful.

    from 1,160€ to 1,660€

  • ZC 72 - Sleeps 8

    This absolutely splendid villa provides luxury accommodation with genuine class and style. In beautiful countryside between the Mediterranean and the lovely village of Casares, it is completely secluded, shrouded in the trees of its gorgeous, 2½ acres of mature gardens.

    from 1,350€ to 2,760€

  • ZC 116 - Sleeps 6

    As you come around the corner you'll marvel at the sea view in front of you and congratulate yourself on choosing a holiday here! With wonderful countryside all around, mountains to the north and blue sea to the south, this villa is a haven for rest and relaxation.

    from 1,250€ to 2,100€

  • ZC 23 - Sleeps 6, 8 or 10

    This immaculately restored water mill is one of the most delightful holiday properties in Andalucía. Lawned gardens, an irresistible pool, trees, birdsong … there's even a huge duck pond, too. Inside, it's all about real Andaluz tradition, taste and style.

    from 980€ to 2,210€

  • ZC 42 - Sleeps 2 and a baby

    Described by one client as "the most beautiful house I've ever seen" this is a delectable place to hide away with a loved one. The perfect place for a first (or second) honeymoon …

    from 1,300€ to 1,560€

  • ZC 98 - Sleeps 8

    Situated in divine countryside, yet just 500 metres from lovely Jimena de la Frontera, this traditional country house has been restored and converted into a delightful home. Enjoying the best of both worlds, it's everything it should be - homely, comfortable and with all mod-cons.

    from 3,000€ to 4,140€

  • ZC 119 - Sleeps 12

    Just a few miles from Spain's Mediterranean coast, surrounded by vineyards of the region's famous muscatel grapes, this 18th century mill house, with secluded elegance both inside and out, offers one of Andalucía's most seductive holiday experiences.

    from 4,730€ to 9,190€

  • ZC 29 - Sleeps 6, 10 or 12

    One of the prime rural properties in Andalucía, this is a genuine Spanish ´hacienda´ set in the beautiful surroundings of its own 350 acre country estate. Quietly splendid and splendidly quiet, it has the unmistakable elegance of good, old-fashioned Spanish grandeur.

    from 1,050€ to 2,990€

  • ZC 55 - Sleeps 8 & a child

    Spacious, elegant and peaceful, this lovely country house down by the river on the edge of the pretty town of Jimena de la Frontera has lush, semi-tropical gardens and overlooks a beautiful nature reserve. It has a real sense of being away from it all.

    from 1,230€ to 2,440€

  • ZC 90 - Sleeps 6

    In an area which is usually famous for its luxury villas, this traditional farmhouse is an unusually rare find. Rustic and completely authentic, it has one of the finest locations in all Andalucia. It was originally rediscovered by a Canadian painter in the 60's and you can see why he chose this enclave to be his sanctuary.

    from 945€ to 1,750€

  • ZC 32 - Sleeps 2 to 6 & a child

    This recently rebuilt and reformed, 200 year old farmhouse has one of the most sensational settings imaginable. Perched on high in the Grazalema Natural Park, views are breathtaking, over the craggy hillsides and beautiful dales all around.

    from 980€ to 1,650€

  • ZC 40(5) - Sleeps 2 & 2 children

    Anyone looking for rural authenticity will treasure the unspoilt paradise of this vast mountain estate, without doubt, one of the most beautiful locations in Andalucía. This terrace of six villas is for couples, with or without, their small children.

    from 510€ to 650€

  • ZC 18 - Sleeps 4

    A neatly restored town house in pretty Jimena, once a frontier village of the Moors, in the picturesque foothills of the Sierra de Ronda. It has its own small back garden swimming pool where you will enjoy the magnificent views.

    from 370€ to 720€

More photos

More photos of Cadiz

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