Between the highest mountains in Spain and the Mediterranean Sea,
La Alpujarra is one of the most enchanting and beautiful regions in
the world. Some call it Las Alpujarras, others La Alpujarra: whichever you prefer, it's a joyous land of sunshine, snowy mountains and some of the most splendid scenery imaginable.
From
the spectacular 'lunar' terrain and snow-capped peaks (which rise
above 10,000 feet), the mountain range of the Sierra Nevada slopes
southwards, traversed by deep, wooded river gorges and truly wonderful
countryside.
Pine
forests on the higher slopes give way to chestnut, walnut and cherry
trees, which in turn give way to almonds, olive groves and vines,
then to orange and lemon, pomegranate and quince in the valleys below.
The mountains rise up once more in La Contraviesa, like a last wave
before the coast, only to fall steeply into the tropical coves and
palm-fringed beaches of the Mediterranean, far below.
The high mountains have their own special
beauty: wild and brooding in winter, they come alive in early summer
with the scents of wild herbs and
the spectacle of tiny, brilliantly coloured flowers, many of them
unique to Sierra Nevada. Altitude and sun have combined to evolve
more endemic botanical species in la Alpujarra than in all the rest
of Europe.
Mountain goats, wild boar, foxes,
eagles, goshawks and partridge inhabit the sierras. Mules and donkeys
still labour in the fields, sheep and goats graze the hillsides. Trout
fill the rivers.
From
the snows to the sea, there are panoramic views in every direction,
from the peaks of Veleta and Mulhacén to the southern sierras and
the Mediterranean beyond. At sunset, the Rif mountains of Morocco
are sometimes clearly visible, 200 kilometres away across the sea.
There is something else too . . .
something indefinable. To the Spanish, "Las Alpujarras" rings of magic,
and there is a natural power which these mountains have and which
everybody who comes here feels. Perhaps it is in the quality of the
light, the brilliance of the stars at night, the purity of the mountain
air or the clear spring waters? Whatever it is, it is something which
remains more than just the beautiful countryside, the time-honoured
local customs, the peacefulness and the warm Andalusian sun . . .
The Moors took refuge in these hills and resisted here, maintaining
their customs and way of life for well over a hundred years after they
were expelled from Granada in 1492 by their Christian conquerors. La
Alpujarra was their final battlefield in Spain.
Their legacy is to be seen everywhere: in the distinctive architecture
of the mountain villages and in the intricate system of irrigation waterways
which they built and which still keep the landscape green and fertile,
fed by the snows melting high in the sierras above.
The architecture of the little mountain
villages is unique in Europe and is identical to Berber originals
in the Atlas mountains of Northern Africa. With dwellings characterised
by flat roofs and prominent chimney pots, the villages were built
by the Berber settlers whose creation imitated and followed the half-natural,
half-man made designs of their own mountain lands.
Beautiful in their simplicity, the
villages appear to tumble haphazardly down the steep hillsides, connected
by a labyrinth of narrow, winding cobbled streets. A picture to behold,
glistening white in the sun, roses and geraniums spilling from every
nook and cranny.
Just a few kilometres from the Costa Tropical, the climate is typical
of Andalucía - warm and sunny with crystal-clear blue skies throughout
most of the year. The mountain air is the cleanest in Europe and,
because of the altitude, the heat in mid-summer is not oppressive,
as it can be in much of southern Spain.
As the seasons change, so does the appearance and
character of our mountain world. Winter is the most dramatic. Snow
lies thick on Sierra Nevada, occasional rains enrich the green life
of the earth, amazing cloud 'dragons' swirl up the valleys and the
sunsets are a joy. A log fire at night is a must!
Late January sees the first swathes of blossom: pink and white almonds,
and soon spring arrives for real, putting on a Monet show of colour
in the valleys. The sun warms the countryside and there is a fresh
liveliness in the pure mountain air.
Summer
time is fiesta time! Each little village celebrates its own festival
and for some this marks out an itinerary in itself of dance and fireworks,
saints and wine. For others, the high mountain villages are a haven
away from the coastal heat.
The
gentle peacefulness of autumn follows; rich in colour, usually warm
and sunny. Grapes are ripe on the vine, walnuts, chestnuts and mushrooms
can be picked by all. Higher up in the hills, the nights begin to
cool, while below in the valleys, where the microclimate is semi-tropical,
swimming pools are still in use throughout October and even into November.
The
historic city of Granada is "just down the road", skiing facilities
on the north side of Sierra Nevada are now world-class, the Mediterranean
coast is less than an hour away. From the snow to the sea . . . Las Alpujarras
