Bubión is a classic example of a Berber mountain
village, spectacularly situated on the steep slopes of the Poqueira Gorge. Before
the road came in the 1920's the only access to the village was by way of a mule
track which zig-zags its way up the hillside from neighbouring Pampaneira. Here,
at the foot of the village is its original heart, with the Church and the main plaza prominent.
These days "Barrio Bajo" remains quiet and virtually
traffic free, most modern-day developments taking place at the top of the village,
along the main road.
This small village house is tucked away, around the corner, just below
the church and the traditional washhouse. Built in authentic berber style, there are chestnut beams,
slate ceilings, terracotta-flagged floors and whitewashed walls. It is a house
of genuine character.
Although very much part of the village, you nevertheless feel hidden away
from the rest of the world here. The south-facing views
down the Poqueira Valley are fabulous, encompassing the rural bliss of
the surrounding mountains, sweeping across a shimmering Mediterranean Sea to
Morocco beyond. The walk down to Pampaneira which starts from the Church is one
of the great walks of the Alpujarras.
The house, simply decorated and unpretentious, is
on two floors. One enters from a side street (where a passion flower vine climbs
the wall) to a dining area neatly divided off from the kitchen. A cosy living
room with open fireplace leads off. The main feature of the house is a timbered
gallery reached via a wooden staircase. Up here is the double bedroom, from where
the gallery leads round to a small furnished bay opening onto a railed balcony.
As the afternoon rays pour in, it's easy to day-dream of days past
when this was the very last stronghold of the once great Kingdom of the Moors.
