Bubión is one of the high mountain villages situated on the
southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Sitting proudly in the midst
of the incredibly beautiful Poqueira Ravine, it is the middle one
of the three traditional Moorish villages located here (Capileira
and Pampaneira are the others).
At an altitude of
1,350 metres above sea level (approximately 4,430 feet), it's a wonderfully
dramatic position and it's no coincidence that Rustic Blue chose it
as their home.
The views in every direction are quite exceptional.
To the north, the highest mountains on the Spanish mainland, Veleta
and Mulhacén, rise up dramatically to the skyline (for much
of the year covered by a thick blanket of snow). To the south, the
Mediterranean Sea glistens beyond the coastal mountain ranges of Lújar
and the Contraviersa. The Rif Mountains of Morocco are sometimes clearly
visible from here, particularly in the mellow evening light of autumn
and winter. Places don't come much more beautiful than this.
The village dates back to Roman times but is perhaps
more famous for its Moorish origins. Hence the classic architecture
of the village, identical
to Berber originals in the Atlas mountains of Northern Africa. Characterised
by flat roofs and prominent chimney pots,
the houses spill down the steep mountainside, connected by little
walkways and by just one, narrow, winding, cobbled street.
All around is glorious nature: chestnut, walnut,
and oak trees, cherry and mulberry too. Here and there you will come
across the locals tending their "huertos" (little vegetable
gardens), perhaps leading a small flock of goats or sheep to new pastures
or returning home from a day's toil in the fields along with their
mules.
In recent years rural and eco-tourism have developed and is now
the mainstay of the local economy. Several village houses
have been converted into attractive self-catering holiday homes. There
is one major hotel, the Villa Turistica de Bubión, and an excellent-value hostal, Las Terrazas. These provide accommodation for the increasing
numbers of walkers, horse-riders and mountain bikers who visit the
area as well as Spanish weekenders (who come mainly in the winter
months, attracted by the snowy mountains).
There are a handful of bars and restaurants, in the main offering
traditional Alpujarran fare, good wholesome food at affordable prices,
washed down by local vinos and still-generously poured spirits.
This is Andalucía, so there's usually plenty of night-time
fun for anyone who seeks it.
Two (rather basic) little supermercados, a few artisanias (selling local weavings and ceramics), a couple of hairdressers, a
hardware store, a dental practice, a medical consulto with
its adjoining farmacia (pharmacy), and an estanco (which
sells stamps, cigarettes and all manner of other knickknacks) more
or less makes up the rest of commercial activity here.
Apart from the obvious attractions of its magnificent mountain setting,
its history and traditional lifestyle, Bubión has long held
an attraction for artists and craftspeople. An excellent French weaver
has her home (and her loom here) and a local art gallery offers interesting
exhibitions from time to time.
A small, but fascinating museum, Casa Alpujarreña housing artefacts from times gone by can be found in the main plaza (the village square) alongside the church, built on the site of the
original mosque. The two lavaderos (wash rooms, where the villagers
no doubt caught up with the latest gossip and intrigue whilst scrubbing
their clothes) have recently been restored.
If you enjoy peace and tranquility, Andaluz-style,
Bubión is the place for you. Except, that is, during the penultimate
weekend of August when the main village fiestas are held: four days
of fun preceded by four nights of music, dancing and making merry.
Nobody sleeps much during the fiestas - be warned!
