Órgiva is located on the southern slopes of the Natural Park of Sierra
Nevada. Situated in the valley of the Rio Guadalfeo where it joins
with the Rio Chico, it is effectively "the capital" of the
Western Alpujarra.
With a population in excess of 5,000, it is the largest
town in the area and is primarily a commercial centre supplying the
entire region. It is an interesting mix of modern Spanish architecture and lifestyles combined with more traditional Alpujarran
characteristics. Many would call it unique.
Órgiva is a natural communication centre: four roads
depart from here, one linking Las Alpujarras with Salobreña and the
Costa Tropical to the south; another heads west, through Lanjarón,
leading on to Granada. A third one, through Torviscón, takes one through
the foothills of the Contraviesa into the remoter villages of the
Eastern Alpujarras; the fourth winds up into the Sierra Nevada, ascending
to Pampaneira, Bubión, Capileira, Trevélez and the other high mountain
villages.
Like most settlements in the area, it's early origins
are surrounded in mystery. It was given to the dethroned Moorish King,
Boabdil, after he lost Granada to the Catholic Monarchs in 1492. Later
it played a very important role in the war between the Moriscos (the
expelled Moors) and the Catholics, when Abén Humeya organised an uprising
against Phillip ll. The Moriscos were eventually and finally expelled
in 1609. Thereafter, Órgiva, in common with the rest of the
Alpujarra, was quickly forgotten and left to languish in economic
decline. Some monuments of earlier days remain, with the16th Century
Palace (Palacio del Duque del Arco) and 16th Century Parish
Church the most obvious.
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The much more recent discovery of the Alpujarras
as an unspoiled and very beautiful holiday destination has dramatically
reinvigorated the town's economy. Taking full advantage of its geographical
position and communications network, it has developed service industries
to cater for the needs of a very wide catchment area. Everything from
supermarkets and pizzerias, banks and building suppliers, camp sites
and petrol stations have sprung up.
Something else happened too: it has become a home-from-home
for all manner of travellers and seekers of an alternative lifestyle.
By some miracle, all seem to live harmoniously here, local dumper-truck
drivers alongside tai-chi practitioners; traditional Spanish
Catholics alongside Zen Buddhists. It's an eclectic mix and all the
more interesting for it. At a rough guess, the first language of,
maybe, a quarter of the population, is . . . English.
And, in amongst all of this, was Chris Stewart, who
settled here many years ago, bought a little finca and raised
his sheep. He was writing, too, and his books, "Driving Over
Lemons" and "A Parrot in the Pepper Tree" have brought
these times to life.
Whatever one makes of Órgiva, it's an excellent
base for discovering the essence of Las Alpujarras. The countryside
all around, in the fertile Vale de Órgiva, is beautiful. Swathes
of orange and lemon trees, olives and pomegranates, bougainvillaea,
morning glory and jasmine bring joy to a sunny land. Surrounded
by mountains (the Sierra Nevada to the north, Sierras Lújar
and La Contraviesa to the south), it's a rural paradise. Órgiva
itself is not high up (only some 450 metres above sea level) and because
of its excellent communications it's easy to travel from here - into
the mountains, down to the coast, or across country to Granada.
With such a cosmopolitan population it is hardly surprising that the
traditional weekly market in Órgiva (held each Thursday morning)
is now a thriving affair and an excuse for many to go into town to
meet up with friends. Definitely worth a visit, if only to discover
what Órgiva is all about!
Unlike most of the towns and villages of Las Alpujarras,
Órgiva doesn't have a summer fiesta. Instead they content themselves
with San Sebastián Day, celebrated on the 20th of January and
the Grand Fair (Féria Grande), celebrated at the end
of September / beginning of October. Santísimo Cristo de la Expiación
Day is another excuse to let off the fireworks, celebrated two
Fridays before Good Friday.
