Considered by many to be Spain's premier "pueblo blanco" there is no doubt that its situation is absolutely spectacular. It
perches on top of an impressive sandstone ridge, Peñña
Nueva, overlooking the meandering Rio Guadelete which
flows around it on three sides. The view from the Plaza del Cabildo at the very top of town is staggering, across the broad, fertile river
valley far, far below, celebrated in ancient ballards for its horses.
To the other side, the ridge overlooks the Lago de Arcos.
Historically an impregnable
fortress town, its location is enhanced by its low white houses and
fine sandstone churches, giving the town a similar feel and appearance
to Ronda - although Arcos is a little less affluent and far less visited.
The old town is at the highest point on the ridge. A labriynth of
narrow streets lead up to the Plaza Cabildo, overlooked by the Gothic
Church of Santa María, the old castle (castillo) and
by one of Spain's better Paradores. The north side of the plaza
is open and this is the place to take in the view, over the golden
cliffs and out across the river plain.
Legend has it that Arcos de la Frontera was founded
around the time of the Great Biblical Flood, some 2,000 years BC.
Be that as it may, it has certainly been inhabited since the earliest
of times, witnessed by the honeycombe of ancient cave dwellings in
the ridge itself. The Romans gave it the name of Arcobriga and it later became a Moorish stronghold under the Caliphate of
Córdoba. It fell to the Catholic Kings in 1264.
The landscape all around is predominantly open, fertile
countryside bedecked with olive and citrus groves, vineyards and fields
of sunflowers. It is an area which is highly regarded for its herds
of bullfighting stock and beautiful horses. The low-lying terrain
ensures that it enjoys a truely Mediterranean climate, although, be
warned, it can be very hot in mid-summer.
The old part of town is a fascinating mix of Moorish
and Renaissance, a maze of steep narrow streets (which in places are
little more than two metres wide) and there are arches in abundance.
There is a plethora of churches here. Apart from Santa Maria perhaps
the most interesting is San Pedro Chapel set right on the edge
of the cliff overlooking the Guadalete river valley. The unsurpassed
Holy Week celebrations in Arcos have been declared of national tourist
interest.
Here and there the shady streets open into small
squares where there's usually a tapa bar or two: no frills, just authentic
'Andaluz'-style hospitality. You will also find some excellent craft
shops (painted ceramics are the speciality), a busy farmers market
and good-value restaurants.
Easily accessable, Arcos is less than an hour's drive
from Sevilla, Cádiz and Ronda as well as both the Mediterranean
and Atlantic coasts. So, it's well worth a visit if you are in this
part of Andalucía. When you set off for home, take some of the excellent biscuits made by the nuns at the Convent of Mercedarias Descalzas with you.
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