One of the classic Andalusian pueblos blancos, Gaucín
is a beautiful village perched on the crest of the Sierra del Hacho.
Overlooking the valley of the Rio Genal below, it's a splendid
vantage point and the views are simply spectacular, down to the Mediterranean
Sea, the Rock of Gibraltar and across to the Rif Mountains of Morocco
beyond.
All around are the mountains of the Serranía
de Ronda which provides brilliant brush strokes of colour: red
poppies, yellow mimosa and wild orchids are tempered by the cool green
of olive groves and an occasional splash of pale pink almond blossom.
Due to its key strategic position it was once a major Roman settlement
and its magnificent castle, Castillo del Aguila (Eagles Castle)
dates from this era, although the fortress remnants seen today were
built by the Arabs in the 13th Century. As one would expect from the
name, it is not unusual to see eagles circling the towers here, while
kestrels regularly nest in the walls of the mediaeval convent.
The centre of the village is a tangle of narrow,
twisting streets, once a haven for brandy and tobacco smugglers who
travelled through the surrounding hills. Until fairly recently, most
houses had no running water and a light bulb would have been considered
a luxury - a far cry from the refurbished houses of today which boast
every mod-con. Now the pretty streets are lined with immaculately
white-washed houses, their traditional wrought iron balconies ablaze
with brightly coloured blooms.
Its steep winding streets, hidden alleyways and
spectacular views have long been an inspiration for painters and photographers
and the village has a sizeable artistic community. In recent years
the village has become very popular with northern Europeans, attracted
by the relaxed lifestyle and the unspoilt beauty of this mountain
hideaway which, at the same time, is only 30 minutes drive away from
the beaches and nightlife of the Costa del Sol.
The village now has several excellent restaurants serving international
cuisine as well as local dishes and tapas. There is a choice
of lively bars and bodegas to visit, too, including two late night
music bars and a flamenco bar. Note, however, that some of these establishments
close during the quieter, winter months.
Surrounded by olive and almond groves the countryside
all around is ideal for walkers, birdwatchers and nature lovers. On
the major migratory route from Europe to Africa, many rare species
can be seen from here including eagles, falcons, buzzards, vultures,
golden oriels, finches, and bee-eaters. Guided walks are available
for those who prefer to explore on foot and there are also a couple
of riding stables near the village.
A Roman road leads down to the Rio Genal, which flows through
the valley below; its banks lined by oleanders. You can swim or fish
here in the deep pools of the river, listed as the cleanest in Europe.
Gaucín, by the way, has a splendid municiple swimming pool,
open in July and August.
In the spring months orchids, lupins, peonies and
gladioli grow wild along the roadside, in winter you will find narcissi,
iris and scillas; the blossom of almond, orange and lemon gives the
countryside a wonderful fragrance. Smugglers' footpaths crisscross
the hillsides and you can walk for hours with only bee-eaters and
wild boar for company.
Los Alcornocales National Park, which also borders Gaucín,
is the largest, oldest and greatest forest in Europe, the remains
of a forest that once covered the whole of Spain (before they began
cutting it down in the 16th century to provide wood for the sailing
ships).
In common with most Andalusian towns and villages,
the people of Gaucín like to party! Carnival is celebrated
here, soon followed by Semana Santa (Easter Week) which sees
a succession of solemn, yet quite magnificent, processions through
the village streets.
On Easter Sunday two bulls (one at 10 am and one at 4 pm), are let
loose to run through the town, chased by the valiant and foolhardy!
This is the Toro de Cuerda and involves much feasting, drinking
and hilarity. Corpus Christi (the Catholic feast celebrating the presence
of the body of Christ in the holy water) is held in June.
The annual fair (La Feria de Gaucín) takes place between
4th and 7th August. Once the ancient livestock fair, the event is
now in honour of the patron saint, Virgen de las Nieves (Our
Lady of the Snows). Children' s entertainment's and music by both
local and national groups are featured, along with the regulation
feasting, drinking and dancing until dawn (or later!).
Apart from the attractions of the Castillo el
Alguila and its splendid 360º vistas of the Serranía de
Ronda and the Campo de Gibraltar, other places in the village
well worth a visit include the Iglesia de San Sebastian (Church
of San Sebastian), built after the reconquest on the site of the mosque
which had, in turn, been built on the site of an earlier visigoth
church. During the Civil War the church was sacked and the organ thrown
into the street and destroyed. The bell tower still dominates the
village skyline.
There's lots to see in surrounding areas, and no
shortage of great day excursions to enjoy. Seville, the vibrant capital
of Andalucía, is only a couple of hours’ drive away. Hemingway’s
favourite Spanish town, Ronda is 45 minutes away. Granada with its
world famous Moorish palace, “La Alhambra”, is three hours drive from
here.
The unspoilt beaches of the Costa de la Luz on the
Atlantic coast are also within easy driving distance. The charming
resort of Tarifa on this coast is a world mecca for windsurfing. Estepona
on the Costa del Sol, a lively resort with a pretty old town and fishing
port, is only 45 minutes drive away; Marbella is reachable within
the hour.
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