La Subbética de Córdoba lies in the very centre of Andalucía,
almost equidistant from its major towns, Córdoba itself, Granada,
Sevilla and Málaga. Within an hour from here you can be in
any one of these great cities.
That alone is a pretty good reason to base a holiday
here. Another is that it just happens to be incredibly beautiful,
a land of rugged hills and deep valleys, spectacular scenery and a
thriving ecology. A vibrant and vivacious landscape, it is both robust
and melodious at one and the same time.
Some of Andalucía's most delightful 'pueblos'
are to be found here, steeped in the ancient traditions and culture
of the area, both products of a fascinating history which dates back
to the beginning of mankind. The people here have been endowed with
a wonderful heritage and it's good to see that they not only cherish
it but are doing their utmost to preserve it.
The
heartland of Andalucía couldn't be described as such without
an olive tree or two. Here there are a few more than that! It's a thrilling vista,
row upon row, dotted on hillside upon hillside, stretching as far
as the eye can see. The symbol of peace, prosperity and knowledge,
the olive tree is the overriding memory of the countryside here and
has had a great influence over people's lives. Some of the world's
finest oil originates from the Subbética, with towns such as
Priego de Córdoba and Baena vying for the prestigious crown
of best producer of the year.
But
it's not all olives, far from it. The centrepiece of the area is its
Natural Park, the Sierras Subbética, some 31,000 hectares
of medium-height limestone mountains which extend through much of
the region, their steep
slopes and rugged crags overlooking pretty, narrow
valleys.
Although not especially high, it does boast Córdoba's highest
peak, La Tiñosa at 1,570 metres.
These
sierras are a joy to behold, and well worth the trouble of getting
out of the car and exploring on foot. Forested with oaks and maples,
they are home to wild cats and boar, foxes, hedgehogs and the Cabrera shrew. Eagles, falcons, vultures and kestrels
circle the skies high above; cuckoos, partridges, owls and swifts
compete for lower air space. Butterflies flutter through a pastoral
scene of pure delight. It's not without interest underground, either,
with some wonderful cave formations, the work of rivers flowing through
the limestone fissures.
By
way of variety, there are some beautiful lakes too, including the
vast "Lake of Andalucía", (although technically this
is a reservoir), some 32 kilometres long, a spectacular sweep of azul
blue water surrounded by hills of olives and almonds in the extreme
south of the region.
More than 300 archaeological sites exist in the Subbética and
there are enough museums, castles, churches and fascinating monuments
to satisfy anyone interested in the history of mankind. Inhabited
since the mists of time, its unique location on the geographic crossroad
between Granada and Córdoba, Sevilla and Málaga has
made this area strongly influential on more than one civilisation.
Important under both the Romans and the Visigoths, for more than
200 years Córdoba was, to all intent and purpose, the "capital
of the world" during the reign of the great Islamic dynasties.
Granada, too, was a city of vast importance and cultural refinement.
Between the two, the Subbética was at the very centre of Al-Andalus culture, the great Hispano-Muslim civilisation which embraced Islam,
Judaism and Christianity. Garrisons, watchtowers and castles remain
throughout the region, a reminder of this legacy.
In the 17th and 18th Centuries, the caliphs long gone, the Subbética
was booming once again, thanks to the craftsmanship and merchanting
enterprise of its inhabitants, a time which is now evidenced in Priego,
Lucena and Cabra by some of the best examples of Cordobian Baroque
architecture.
The expressiveness of the local people is still very much to the fore:
anyone who has experienced the energy and creativity of Easter Holy
Week, or the "Cruces de Mayo" or the spontaneity and fun
of any number of local festivals held in towns and villages up and
down the region will remember the magic for a long time to come.
Easter
Week in both Cabra and Priego (and the May celebrations here, too)
have been declared attractions of national interest.
Traditional crafts and products continue to flourish here, with woodwork,
esparto grass, pottery, stone, bronze and embroidery all actively
pursued. There's plenty of lovely things to buy here, in addition
to some mouth-watering local agricultural products - and that wonderful
olive oil, of course!
The Subbética is made up of fourteen towns, ranging in size
from the 900 inhabitants of Zuheros to the 40,000 or so in Lucena.
As everywhere, some are of more interest to the tourist than others,
although each and every one of them have something about them. Here
are a few of our favourites:
PRIEGO
DE CÓRDOBA Quite rightly known as the "Baroque Jewel", Priego is a
lovely little town, energetic and flourishing yet steeped in history
and old-world charm. There are some wonderful examples of Baroque
of course, with a church seemingly around every corner.
La Fuente
del Rey is a national monument, a highly sculptured spring with
a mere 139 fountains. There are several other architectural delights,
including the impressive Arab castle and the 16th Century market and
slaughterhouse, Las Carnicerías Reales. Above all, it's
a town which just invites you to stroll - don't miss the flower-bedecked
passageways of the Barrio de la Villa which lead down to the
panoramic vistas of the Balcón del Aldarve.
ZUHEROS is one of the prettiest villages in Andalucía. Nestling
mid way up the northern slopes of the Sierra, it enjoys wonderful
views across the dusty plains which stretch out way into the distance.
The mountain continues its climb up behind the village, everywhere
it's lovely verdant countryside. Zuheros is classic Arabic-Andaluz,
the castle tower rising from its centre, a 16th Century church alongside.
Village streets are steep and narrow, winding their precipitous way
along the contours of the mountain.
There
is a fascinating - and archeologically important - cave here: the Cueva de los Murciélagos (the Cave of the Bats), which
runs for a length of two kilometres, full of stalactites and stalagmites,
and which exhibits a wealth of Neolithic wall paintings and other
evidence of prehistoric life, dating back some 35,000 years.
CARCABUEY Right in the heart of the National Park, this little
town has a welcoming and friendly feel. It's an unpretentious place,
a good place to stop for a tapa or two and watch the world go by,
Cordobese-style. The castle here is a classic and well worth a visit.
Not least of the attractions are the views. All around the town, the
wonderful hills, valleys and craggy mountain peaks of the National
Park stretch out, a painting to behold.
IZNÁJAR Perched on its rocky outcrop above the "Lake of Andalucía",
this medieval settlement appears like an island rising from the waters.
Great views, some seriously steep little streets, the obligatory Moorish
castle at
its summit (and Baroque church alongside), good fishing, watersports
and birdwatching along the shores of the lake are some of the attractions
here.
There's plenty of good food and fine wines on offer in the Subbética:
Doña Mecía is home to the excellent Montilla Moriles fino (sherry), widely available throughout the area, an excellent
(and cheap) apéritif.
Substantal, calorie-rich mountain foods,
including tasty
pork and goat dishes, are a speciality; you shouldn't miss
the scrummy goats cheeses from the area either, and no meal would
be complete without a chupito (a shot) of one of Rute's famous
aniseed liquors.
With
a climate which is typically Andalusian (hot in summer, mild and balmy
in spring and autumn, a little chilly in the depths of winter, La
Subbética offers so much to the visitor: authentic Andaluz
lifestyle, a rich cultural tapestry, beautiful countryside, attractive
towns and villages - and an easy journey to each and every one of
Andalucía's great historic cities.
La Subbética is just waiting for you to discover it . . .
