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Hiking in Spain's La Alpujarra |
by Nancy Wilson
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Up or down. Those were the choices because level was not available. The plain where the rain mainly falls is not in this part of Spain !
We were in La Alpujarra area of Andalucía, the region that encompasses Southern Spain. This mountainous area south of Granada is noted for its whitewashed villages clinging to the mountain slopes and for its rugged terrain.
For a week I was part of a small group hiking the mountains of La Alpujarra. The trip was organised by Rustic Blue, a company headquartered in the little village of Bubión. With joint Spanish / English management they were experts both in planning challenging routes and in providing the amenities for their clients. The group was made up of seven of us from Minnesota, two Canadians and five British.
I should have guessed we were in for some stiff hiking when I spoke with one of Rustic Blue's owners about whether to bring hiking boots or tennis shoes. He said in his understated way and with his strong English accent, "Bring hiking boots - It's a proper walk" Translated, this meant, "Be prepared for a strenuous hike!" What we flat-lander Minnesotans didn't quite realize was that ‘walking' in La Alpujarra was either up and up or down and down, unless it was a combination.
The last week in September proved the perfect time to be in Andalucía and the hiking was beyond our expectations. Set amid the Sierra Nevada mountains the countryside provides extended mountain vistas and close-ups of narrow village streets. The weather was such that shorts and tee-shirt were comfortable during the day and a sweater felt good after the sun had gone down.
The first day of hiking began with a climb up the mountainside behind Bubión to a ridge providing views of La Tahá valley. Then we began our descent through the six small white-washed villages of Capilerilla, Mecina, Mecinilla and Fondales to Busquistar. Everything is white in the towns; walls, steps, windows and streets, and adds to the feeling of cleanliness. The streets were sometimes so narrow we went single-file through them; streets that sometimes were made up of steps or went under sections of houses.
Along the way we snacked on blackberries, almonds, walnuts, apples, figs and grapes. This abundance of fruit and nuts lined our paths and proved to be an irresistable temptation. The blackberry bushes were especially plentiful and hung over the trail to offer large, black, sweet treats.
Nevertheless we were ready for what we came to know as ‘Conor's gourmet lunch'. Our guide was an Irishman, Conor Clifford, who must have been practicing his cooking while spending the past 21 years exploring these mountainsides. At the bottom of the valley by the remains of a Roman bridge we had fresh bread with ham, a ‘cheese of the day' (Camembert, this day), a fresh vegetable salad, a made-while-we-waited cole slaw salad, cheeses, salami, grapes, apples and juice. For Americans used to eating at noon, the 2.30 lunches turned into what Conor referred to as a "feeding frenzy".
The combination of hiking through woodland and then traversing little villages was a perfect way to become acquainted with the area. At Busquistar we took the bus back to Capileira. Twenty kilometers the first day. Just a little tired !
The second day we began going up and up from Capileira, sometimes scrambling in the steep spots. The trail seemed hidden as we made turns between the trees and rocks. Walking along the ridge at the top gave views over the mountain valleys showing mountain tops, with Morocco in the distance. At the edge of a cliff I looked over and wondered how it would be possible to get down to the bottom in one piece. We did go down . . . and down, sometimes half sliding, and using hands as well as feet.
Waterfalls accompanied us on our descent and lunch was by an ice-cold pool at the bottom. I soaked my feet while some hardy souls took a dip in the freezing water. Today's menu included sage-simmered chicken instead of the ham. Um, good! Up again and along an unused road back to our hotel. Twenty one kilometers today and I'm less tired. Not bad for a 62 year old woman from Minnesota.
The next day we hiked on our own for whatever distance we wanted. Four of us explored the villages of Capileira and Bubión. The streets are so narrow, steep and winding that it is difficult to see where you are going or where you have been. A new discovery appears around every corner. Little shops with no advertising signs outside popped up and had to be explored. A bakery, a weaving store, a pharmacy, a gift shop: each need to be checked out. This was an easier day as my legs were recovering and the five miles uphill back to the hotel felt easy.
On Thursday we had a prolonged beginning, driving up a winding, rough road for an hour in a four-wheeled drive vehicle. Then we began our climb to the top of the highest mountain in mainland Spain. Hiking to Mulhacén is not a difficult climb as an old track goes most of the way up. The last part is over large, rough rocks and takes some clambering but the main problem is altitude. At over 11,000 feet it is considerably higher than the 5,000 plus feet we had been at earlier in the week. We just kept on going up and up. Everyone went at their own speed and my husband and I made steady progress but it seemed as though the top was never in sight. Topping one ridge only led to the sight of another one. Pride keeps one going when nothing else will and finally the summit was in front of us. From the top we could see in all directions to mountains and more mountains and the sea. What an achievement !
Friday we started down instead of up, into the depths of the valley and up the steep paths on the other side. We passed abandoned farm sites here that had been on the small terraces. As we neared the top of the other side of the valley we approached a Buddhist monastery where a successor to the high lama is being housed. We solomnly circled the nearby shrine three times to insure peace and prosperity.
Turning back to look across the valley in the direction from which we had come we could see the three villages of Capileira, Bubión and Pampaneira tucked into the hillside like giant steps. Pampaneira is at the bottom with the other two at short distances above and west. Our way led us down to Pampaneira alternatively giving us vistas and close-ups of trees, shrubs and rocks.
Each evening in Capileira we were treated to fine dining and on one night flamenco dancers performed for us. Good conversation was always on the menu and the comparisons and contrasts noted among hikers from the three countries were stimulating and on occasion hilarious. We learned to dance the Scottish jig, play the spoons and translate English to American; such as dustbin for garbage can, chemist for druggist, ground floor for first floor, first floor for second floor etc.
On the last day, Granada, a city with centuries of history encompassing both Moorish and Christian antecedents was waiting to be explored. We toured the fabulous palace of the Alhambra and then walked through the picturesque streets of the city. Lunch was in Sacramonte, the old gypsy cave quarters where, from our restaurant, we gazed at the Alhambra across the valley.
Sitting on the balcony of our hotel, looking out over the valley to the mountains, it seemed we had hiked a long way. But thinking of the stimulation of the group, the consideration and planning of Conor, our guide, the laughter, teasing and encouragement among the hikers, the days had gone fast and the miles were short.
Altogether a memorable week; hiking to be proud of, new friends and new experiences. The price is very affordable and Rustic Blue was a delight to work with. |
